Friday, December 02, 2005

Grassie de Canard

Truth be told, I roast a lot of ducks just so I can have a ready supply of duck fat on hand. This dense, flavorful fat lends depth and character to anything it touches. I use it to make the best fried potatoes in the greater western hemisphere. Duck fat is a key ingredient in making confit, will explode the flavor of caramelized onions and heighten the taste of most other fried vegetables.

Roasting a duck is just about the same as roasting chicken from a practical standpoint. The differences of course lie in the results. Duck does not taste like chicken. It does not exactly cook like chicken either. Because ducks have so much fat (I suppose from all that swimming and diving) they tend to splatter a bit more. But with the mess also comes the resultant treasure – duck fat. I cook at least two ducks at a time to guarantee enough duck for dinner and enough duck fat for a week of mad monounsaturated fat, throw all caution to the wind, cooking.

And while the little bastards roast away in the oven, I sauté the excess duck fat and skin along with the livers for a cook’s treat. The skin turns to cracklin’s, the livers plump up and take in the rendered fat. Served on a couple of slices of baguette with a glass of Nuit Saint George, this makes an exceptional amuse bouche.

If E is close by, she gets a taste, otherwise … well, you get the picture.

9 Comments:

Blogger Prom said...

I've been slow roasting chicken in my crock pot (nice to be able to since I'm gone most of the day). Do you think duck would work like that as long as I wasn't too concerned with the skin being crispy?

1:58 PM  
Blogger The Reverent Eater said...

I swear by the cooking gods and goddesses of all cultures that you are my kind of cook! Except for the liver treats. I'm not as sure about that part.

2:40 PM  
Blogger Champurrado said...

Prom:

As a crock pot virgin I'm unsure how best to advise you on that one. Ducks have way more fat than chickens. Maybe first par boil the beast first for a short time to render off some of the fat then crock pot it.

Manchego:

Very nice of you to say. I know, there are very few of us liver worshipers out there.

8:42 AM  
Blogger The Reverent Eater said...

I would certainly try the liver once, especially with a glass of Nuit Saint George. When I do, I'll let you know how it goes. The potatoes fried in duck fat sound delicious. Thanks.

10:20 AM  
Blogger Foilwoman said...

I just roasted a chicken, and added the liver in with the onion, celery, walnuts, and bread that make the stuffing. It makes the stuffing good. Oh, that's after poaching it with the other giblets to make a good broth though.

6:59 PM  
Blogger "" said...

I order duck whenever it is on a menu.
The thai place on the block serves it in cocoanut milk with pineapple and spices. Of course, I know this could never compare to anything chef champurado would serve...

Yesterday I purchaced a beautiful roast lamb imported from Australia. I've never prepared lamb before. Any suggestions, maestro?

12:55 PM  
Blogger Champurrado said...

Amie:

Ah, mutton. Can you hear the lambs, Agent Starling?

OK, really, I need a little background here. Do you want to roast the bastard, flay it and grill it or just chunk it up and braise it middle eastern wise with lentils? Give me a selection of five or so ways you like lamb so I can give you ammo.

I have a preference for butterfly lamb rubbed with spices and marinated for a while before it's grilled outdoors.

Many people in our area are still grilling, snow notwithstanding.

Of course, you can cut a slit in your roast and stuff it, truss it and just slow roast it too. Nobody's going to complain. Lamb is dreadfully hard to dry up.

Let me know what you like and I'll make a suggestion.

2:42 PM  
Blogger Carla said...

duck season is coming soon. we cook and eat all that we shoot but many people only hunt for sport. the result - we are on the receiving end of a lot of unwanted bastards. we covet them. i have not roasted a whole one yet. will try. your method sounds divine. many of these wild birds are not heavily fat either so it takes more of them to get a good quantity of fat. marinade of soy, olive oil, fresh rosemary, garlic and spring onions makes the meat blossom in layers of good taste.

1:38 PM  
Blogger Champurrado said...

Patina:

The best duck I ever ate was wild duck, shot and prepared by my old classmate, Matty. He made a simple dish of roast duck breast served over wild rice. It was lovely.

6:27 AM  

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